There’s no doubt about it, celeb chef Jason Atherton has lately been busier than a paisley nightie. In addition to a slew of international openings, most recently Hong Kong’s 22 Ships and Shanghai’s Commune Social, the Brit chef has headed back to where he started, or just across the street anyway. Opposite his Michelin-starred Pollen Street Social, Atherton this past March debuted Little Social, a velvet-curtained, low-ceilinged, booth-and-banquetted vintage throwback offshoot of the beloved original, offering Franco-inflected, Anglo-centric comfort dishes all elevated by Atherton’s deft hand. Pork head and foie gras terrine is sweetly sliced with a tea and prune purée, braised Irish ox cheeks are crumbed with sourdough and punctuated with sharp horseradish mash, and true to Atherton style, the desserts don’t disappoint – the pink peppercorn meringue with lemon and lime curd is nothing short of triumphant. And clever cocktails like the Ooh La La-tinez (Chateau du Breuil Fine calvados, Pierre Ferrand dry curacao, Dolin rouge vermouth, orange bitters) simply add to the fun. Pas mal, monsieur!
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